With the I/O, the load was never directly on the transom as it will be with your bracket. the entire transom must become, in effect, a solid piece as it was before the original cut out for the I/O. It is not good enough to simply fill the hole. Unless the plug is integral to the transom (multi-layered glass faired on the inside and out), you will still have a hole on your transom.You want the additional load of the engine to transition past the hole, not be drawn directly to it. This is just a rough drawing of the brace, it will actually wrap more around the stringers with bolts through the stringer side and top. Brace will be in tension since forces on the top of the outboard bracket are pulling outward. Photo5-Proposed I/O plug and stainless plate over inside transom I/O hole. Photo4-Inside transom showing existing construction layout. Photo3-Proposed stainless plate mounted outside over I/O hole. Bolts are in new holes for outboard bracket. Photo2-Outside transom showing hole where old I/O was mounted. Photo1-Outboard bracket temporarily bolted to transom. Question2: Can I use marine grade aluminum instead of stainless steel for the plates and knee brace? (much cheaper and easier to work with) I plan on using 3M 5200 sealant wherever metal contacts fiberglass. I hope to minimize any transom flexing by using a knee brace that is attached to the top Bracket bolts and the stringers in the bottom of the boat. The outside/inside transom plates are primarily to ensure that the plug stays in place and remains watertight, the inside plate also serves as backing reinforcement for the bracket bolts. The sequence of photos show how I propose to mount the new engine. Outboard Bracket: "Stainless Marine" 26" setback (20"high x 20"wide) 1/4" marine aluminum construction New Engine: Honda 150hp four-cycle outboard (already purchased) Old Engine: Volvo-Penta AQ125 I/O 120hp (already removed) I am seeking suggestions from those of you who have replaced an I/O engine with an Outboard on a bracket.
0 kommentar(er)
